IWC Aquatimer Watches
Shortly after World War II, exploration of the underwater world became popular. Many people took up scuba diving, both recreationally and professionally. With this newfound interest came a need for diving watches that would keep track of oxygen supply while underwater. IWC answered this call in 1967 with the release of their first diving specific watch, the Aquatimer.
IWC Aquatimer’s Special Bezel
Before the IWC Aquatimer was introduced, most diving watches operated the same way. Just before your dive started, you would rotate the bezel to align with the minute hand. That way you could see exactly how much time you were underwater and avoid running out of oxygen. One problem with this was the tendency for a dive watch to be accidentally knocked, causing the bezel to move and the timing to be inaccurate. IWC saw this problem as an opportunity to innovate. The Aquatimer featured an internal bezel that could not be accidentally knocked. It was adjusted by turning a second crown, located at 4 o’clock. Over the years IWC has introduced versions of the Aquatimer with external bezels, but the internal bezel versions remain a favorite of collectors.
IWC Aquatimer Straps Meant for Diving
Over the decades, IWC has introduced many versions of the Aquatimer, with various options for straps. A leather strap is not ideal for diving. Leather takes time to dry out after being submerged and would not do well with repeated exposure to salt water. Metal bracelets look nice and are sturdy. However, their inflexibility makes them not ideal for diving. Dive watches are often worn over wetsuits, which can have varying thicknesses. A rubber strap allows for some flexibility in how the watch fits so that it stays securely fastened to your wrist. The strap can also be submerged in salt water many times.
IWC Aquatimer’s 50-Year Anniversary
In 2017, IWC released a special version of the Aquatimer to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the iconic watch. The IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” has several special features. The watch contains a perpetual calendar mechanism — it automatically recognizes the date change during leap years and different-length months. This complicated mechanism does not require any adjustment until the year 2100. The watch also introduced a new and innovative material to the watchmaking industry called Ceratanium. Ceratanium is a composite of ceramic and titanium, which is extremely durable, lightweight and resistant to corrosion. The resistance to corrosion is especially important for the Aquatimer’s use as a dive watch.
IWC Caliber 8541
The original Aquatimer (Reference 812) contained an incredible mechanical movement, the IWC Caliber 8541. Inside this miniature marvel is a particular type of hairspring called a Breguet overcoil. Mechanical watches use an oscillating balance wheel to regulate the release of energy from the mainspring barrel and therefore keep time. The oscillations of the balance wheel are controlled by a tiny spring called the hairspring. The hairspring is one of the most important parts in any mechanical watch, as any maladjustments to it could alter the watch’s timekeeping characteristics. The Breguet overcoil is a particular type of hairspring that overcomes issues with isochronism that are present in other watches. This hairspring is named after Abraham Louis Breguet, who is credited with its invention in 1795. The 3D nature of the Breguet overcoil ensures that the hairspring breathes in a concentric manner as it provides the restoring energy to the balance wheel during its oscillations.
IWC and Porsche
In the early 1980s the Swiss watch industry was not in good shape. The “quartz crisis” had changed the watch-buying preferences of the public toward cheap, battery-powered watches. In 1980, Günter Blümlein joined IWC as CEO and sought to reinvigorate the brand with a partnership with Porsche. In 1983, the first result of this partnership was introduced: the IWC Aquatimer Ocean 2000. The watch was noteworthy in two distinct ways. First, it was water resistant to 2,000 meters (an incredible depth). Second, its design was extremely attractive. Porsche Design Group worked wonders in adapting the iconic Aquatimer to Porsche’s distinctive design style, and it was an immediate hit.
IWC Aquatimer’s Mechanical Depth Gauge
In 1999, IWC released an intriguing version of the Aquatimer, the “Deep One” (Reference 3527). This unique watch had a previously unseen complication: a mechanical depth gauge. It worked by allowing a small amount of water into a part of the internal mechanism. The pressure of the water altered the shape of a small part, which in turn moved an indicator on the dial to show the depth of the diver.
Do IWC Watches Increase in Value?
Certain IWC watches will increase in value, but not all. To find a particularly valuable IWC watch, check out auction results. References that are particularly rare tend to sell for well over their retail price. Even better is to find one of these references in new-old-stock (NOS) condition. Not all IWC watches will increase in value. Doing your homework ahead of buying is important.
IWC Aquatimer Value and Collectibility
The IWC Aquatimer is an iconic watch from IWC, and many different versions are available on the resale market. An Aquatimer Cousteau Special Edition (Reference 376805 99.99) sold for nearly $5,000 in January 2021. If you are looking for an Aquatimer with a different style of case material, consider bronze. A IWC Aquatimer Chrono Edition Darwin edition in bronze (Reference IW3795-03) sold for just under $6,000 in December 2020.